Saturday, July 16

Finally, a relaxing Saturday

Stayed in Cambridge for the first part of my Saturday, then went to Ely in the afternoon. Slept in late, went for a short run, picked up some food at Sainsbury, and then left for Ely with the group at 3.

After a short 20 minute train ride, we arrived in Ely, which was nice with its Cambridge-like brick buildings, but not as distinctive. Someone in our group likened it to North Carolina (I've never been, but if you have, I guess that's what it looks like). But no matter, because the city of Ely isn't what we came for, but the cathedral. And I hate to keep talking about cathedrals because you're probably sick of them, but I love them, and each one I see is honestly better than the one before it.

Ely Cathedral was the largest, most amazing cathedral of all the ones I've seen previous. At this point Ely Cathedral and King's College Chapel are my favorite non-natural sights (my favorite natural sight would have to be Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh). The Ely Cathedral, built in 1109 (but the area was originally founded as a monastery in 673) is HUGE and shaped like a cross. The ceiling of the nave is incredibly high and also free standing without central support and has a gorgeous, colorful painted scene depicting the writers of the books of the Bible in order, with Christ at the top. There are numerous, gorgeous Gothic side chapels, with characteristic intricate Gothic carvings and medieval stained glass windows. The highlight of the cathedral is the Octagon in the center, the most lavishly and meticulously decorated cathedral decoration I have seen yet. Gold gilded and painted and even higher than the nave ceiling (of course, being a tower), it has paintings of angels, angels, and even more angels, pointing towards a heavenly face in the peak of the tower dome. I couldn't take my eyes off of it, it is absolutely STUNNING.

Every aspect of the cathedral was just gorgeous. I really like the Gothic architecture and the expansive, cavernous size of the cathedral. I had a really hard time leaving, everything about it just moved me so much.

We had some time to kill before coming back to the cathedral for the concert later that evening, so we walked around the town a bit and grabbed a bite to eat. Not much to see in Ely besides the Cathedral and the surrounding medieval monastery and cloister remains.

Back at 7 for the concert, The Cambridge Philharmonic Society (CPS) performing Schubert's Symphony No. 8 in B minor, Szymanowksi's Stabat Mater, and the best part (in my opinion anyway), Mozart's Requiem. WHAT A CONCERT!!! I had bought a ticket to sit in the rear of the nave, farthest away from the chorus and symphony (they were the cheapest at £5) but according to the steward at the box office they were the best seats: you can't see much, but because of the cavernous size of the nave the acoustics back there are awesome. When I got there had the option of exchanging my ticket for one in the front row, right in the Octagon, but I decided not to, wanting to see about these awesome acoustics. It was a good move; while I was sitting back there, the sound was thunderous, like surround sound. It just enveloped me completely and was amazing. I just leaned my head back, gazed at the heavenly paintings on the nave ceiling, and took in the voice and music of angels on earth. The CPS was amazing, and the music was so moving and dramatic.

At the interval, I decided to switch up to the front to have a different perspective, see if the acoustics thing was true, and also so I could see the chorus and symphony members; I like watching them work at their craft, I wish I could be that talented. The acoustics were definitely better in the nave, but I liked being up there to see the action, and it wasn't THAT much different, just a little more muted and flat and less surround-sound like. While the Schubert and Szymanowski were excellent, Mozart's Requiem just knocked me off my feet (or my butt, I guess, since I was sitting). Absolutely amazing, fabulous, stunningly well done. It was such a wonderful experience to take in such world-class music in an equally world-class setting that matched the theme and complexity of the music. I'm going to go to Heffers tomorrow (classical music retailer) to see about picking up a recording or something, I really enjoyed the concert.

Got back to Cambridge and hit up the Van of Life (trailer in the market square that stays open late and has good fast food grub) [sorry Ehren, I know you said Van of Death is better, but the food people were eating from there looked not as appetizing compared to the other van's wares...I'll try it some other night] for a late night snack. The girls and I got our grub (veggie dogs and chips for them, chicken burger for me) and enjoyed it sitting on the wall in front of King's College. Stuffed our faces while watching pub/club revelers walking, a bunch of guys dancing to Indian music in front of a store, and a guy on a bicycle pulling a little carriage with a Just Married sign on the back of it and aluminum cans tied to the end transporting a newlywed couple. I love this place. A fun end to a good day.

3 Comments:

At 7:05 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I didn't say the Van of Death is better - I said it failed to kill me. They serve pretty much the same stuff; if the Van of Life is swamped with people and you're really starving, you could do worse than the Van of Death. Well, not really, since they're basically the only places open past 9. There's also Gardenia's, which has, again, the same sort of stuff - it's further down the little street where McDonalds and Heffers are.

As for the Requiem, get the recording by the Concentus Musicus Wien directed by Nikolaus Harnoncourt, if you can - Deutsche Harmonia Mundi 82876 58705. The Tafelmusik recording, Sony Classical 60764, directed by Bruno Weil, is also excellent, but Harnoncourt's, I think, is best. There's no shortage of recordings of this work, some superb, some shockingly bad, and it's worth getting a bloody good one. If you want more details on recording editions (important, since Mozart himself never finished the work and it's been completed by a variety of folks with results varying from stunning to dreadful), send me an email - I'm always happy to talk classical music.

 
At 7:23 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh dear God - I just saw the photo of Peter Martland trying on the hair clip. I was quite fond of the guy, but that's really too disturbing. And I doubt that suit has been pressed since I was there two years ago.

 
At 5:50 PM, Blogger Johanna said...

wow, thanks for the advice on the requiem recording...very very very helpful, as you always are. And with Peter Martland with the hair clip, believe it or not he ASKED me for it. I think that's the most disturbing part.

 

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